Cold water surfing is a physical and psychological test, even for the most passionate and hardcore surfers. Here are 20 tips to improve your experience in the chilliest conditions.

Low air and water temperatures can take a toll on the will to paddle out, but sometimes, the addition of surfing and good waves is too strong to resist.

Therefore, to truly enjoy it, preparation is key.

The cold can be tough on your body and soul, so having the right gear, habits, and mindset is essential to staying safe, warm, and stoked.

Let's get practical. Check out our comprehensive cold water surfing guide.

The following considerations work incrementally to minimize the roughness of surfing in cold waters.

1. Layer Up for the Surf Check

When checking the surf, it's easy to get chilled, especially in freezing conditions.

Dress in layers with a warm jacket, hat, and gloves to keep the cold at bay while you scout the waves.

Opt for windproof outerwear, as the wind can cut through regular jackets and rob your body of heat.

Having these layers ensures you don't start the session already cold.

Remember, keeping your core warm before hitting the water is crucial for lasting longer in low temps.

Spend a few extra minutes observing the waves, but prioritize staying warm.

2. Wear Clothes, Shoes, and Socks That Are Easy to Get On

Post-session, your body will be stiff and cold, so make sure to have clothes that are simple to slip into.

Loose-fitting sweatpants, a thick hoodie, and fleece-lined socks are lifesavers when your hands and feet don't cooperate.

Footwear is equally important. Slip-on boots or sneakers that don't require tying are perfect.

3. Suit Up at Home or in the Car

If you prefer to minimize exposure to the elements, put your wetsuit on before arriving at the beach or stay warm inside your car as you change.

This can be particularly helpful in windy or wet weather.

Use a portable seat cover or a towel to protect your car seats if you're suiting up inside.

4. Wear a Good Thick Winter Wetsuit

Invest in a high-quality winter wetsuit, ideally 5/4 mm or even 6/5 mm, to maintain warmth.

Seam technology makes a huge difference - choose glued and blind-stitched seams or liquid-sealed seams, which reduce water seepage.

A good wetsuit should fit snugly without restricting movement.

When choosing one, consider the flexibility of the neoprene or Yulex and ensure it matches the temperatures you'll dip in.

5. Wear a Neoprene Hood, Gloves, and Booties

Your extremities lose heat the fastest.

A thick neoprene hood (5 mm+), gloves (5 mm+), and booties (5 mm+) are essential for retaining body heat.

Look for items with a snug fit to avoid water flushing but not so tight that they hinder circulation.

These accessories shouldn't be optional in frigid water - they make the difference between an enjoyable session and one cut short by numbing cold.

6. Eat or Drink Something Hot on the Way to the Beach

Pre-session nutrition matters.

A hot drink like coffee, tea, or even broth not only warms your core but also gives you a psychological boost before stepping into icy water.

The idea is to make your brain want to paddle out.

If you're eating, go for something light and energy-packed, like oatmeal or a banana.

Avoid heavy meals, as digestion can draw heat away from your muscles.

7. Park Your Car So It Blocks the Wind

Strategically park your vehicle to shield yourself from the wind while changing.

The car acts as a natural barrier, creating a pocket of calm to suit up or dry off.

Wind magnifies the cold, so even small adjustments like using your car as a barrier can significantly improve your comfort.

8. Pile Your Clothes in the Order You'll Put Them On Afterward

After surfing, your body will cool down rapidly.

Arrange your clothes beforehand in the exact order you'll need them - underwear and socks on top, followed by warm layers.

The goal is to prevent fumbling around while shivering, and it ensures you don't accidentally leave something out in the rush to get warm.

9. Always Put on a Pair of Surf Earplugs

Cold water and wind can lead to surfer's ear, a painful condition caused by bony growths in the ear canal.

Surf earplugs help protect your ears while still allowing you to hear and stay balanced.

Make earplugs part of your gear routine. They're lightweight, affordable, and can save you from long-term hearing issues and expensive surgery.

10. Warm Up and Stretch

Before paddling out, warm up your muscles with a quick stretching routine.

Cold muscles are more prone to injury, and stretching increases blood flow, preparing your body for the session ahead.

Focus on your shoulders, back, and legs - key muscle groups for paddling and popping up.

Dynamic warm-up stretches like arm circles and lunges are especially effective.

11. Don't Go Out Alone

Cold-water surfing carries extra risks, from hypothermia to strong currents. Always bring a buddy who can assist in case of emergencies.

Not only is it safer, but surfing with a friend also makes the session more enjoyable and gives you someone to share the stoke with.

12. Choose the Right Wax for the Water Temperature

Cold water requires specially formulated wax that stays grippy in low temperatures.

Using the wrong wax can lead to slippery situations, making it harder to stay balanced on your board.

Check the wax label for the recommended temperature range and apply it generously to your board before heading out.

13. Delay the First Duck Dive to Avoid Brain Freeze

When paddling out, try to postpone the first duck. Let your body adjust to the cold water gradually.

Start with shallow dips to acclimate your face and head.

This simple trick can help prevent the shocking "brain freeze" sensation and make your entry into the surf more comfortable.

14. Paddle Around and Get Busy

Staying active keeps your body warm. Keep paddling between sets and avoid sitting idle in the lineup.

Movement generates heat and helps combat the chill.

Even small adjustments like fine-tuning the positioning in the lineup or warming up your arms can keep your blood flowing.

15. Resist the Initial Cold

It's normal to feel an initial chill, but your body often adjusts after a few minutes.

Fight the urge to leave too early; you might miss the best waves once you've warmed up.

16. Don't Push It Too Much

Listen to your body. Shivering, numb extremities, or feeling overly fatigued are warning signs of hypothermia.

Exit the water immediately and warm up if you experience these symptoms.

Safety always comes first. No wave is worth risking your health over, so set limits and stick to them.

17. Have a Heated Portable Shower in Your Vehicle

A warm rinse after surfing can make all the difference.

A heated portable shower is relatively inexpensive and a game-changer, washing away salt and restoring warmth to your body.

Set it up in advance so it's ready when you return. If a heated shower isn't an option, even a jug of warm water will do.

18. Have a Warm Drink in a Thermos

A thermos filled with hot tea, cocoa, or soup can quickly restore your core temperature after a session.

Sip it slowly to enjoy the warmth and keep your hands toasty.

Drinking something hot will not only be comforting but will help you recover from the cold you've been exposed to.

19. Use a Changing Pad and a Poncho

A waterproof changing mat protects your feet from the cold ground, while a surf poncho offers privacy and shields you from the wind.

These simple surf items make changing out of a wetsuit faster and more comfortable, especially in harsh conditions.

20. Dry Your Wetsuit for Your Next Session Completely

A damp wetsuit can be a frigid nightmare. Rinse your wetsuit with fresh water after each session and hang it to dry in a well-ventilated space.

Use a wetsuit hanger to speed up the drying process and avoid creases. Starting your next session in a dry suit makes all the difference.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Jamie O'Brien and Mike Stewart have orchestrated a memorable joint stunt at Banzai Pipeline, Hawaii.

Despite being family members, surfing and bodyboarding have a long history of rivalry and disputes in and out of the water.

However, if there are still doubts that they're unique yet complementary sports, two Pipe Masters made sure to revive our memories and put away any prejudice and judgemental thoughts we might have.

On November 29, 2024, Jamie O'Brien and Mike Stewart saw Oahu's North Shore light up with a massive swell igniting Pipeline's outer reefs.

"I haven't been out at Second Reef that far in a long time. Honestly, it's been ages since I paddled out there," Jamie O'Brien told Surfline.

"But today felt like the day - the buoys were reading 19 feet at 18 seconds. I knew there was a lot of water moving."

"Days like this always bring special waves, and today was no different." 

"When the wave popped up out the back, it was a beautiful 12-15 foot set. I probably took off near Off the Wall, super far out."

"I was thinking, 'Oh my God, this wave might connect all the way to Pipe.' As I looked up, I saw a bodyboarder. I was like, 'Who's this guy?' Then I realized - it was Mike. Mike looked at me, and I was like, 'Yeah, it's Mike.'"

Suddenly, Mike and Jamie were in a situation they'd already been in the past.

So, the goal was to repeat something the duo recorded in the 2006 surf movie "Freakside": to enjoy a huge double barrel at Hawaii's tube riding capital.

"So, I thought, 'alright, let's do this.'"

An Orchestrated Wave-Riding Masterclass

Taking off on a large Second Reef bomb, O'Brien and Stewart set and draw their surf lines as they move toward the inside.

"I saw Mike taking a fast line, and I thought, 'You know what? I don't care what this wave does. I'm going to stay a little deeper and just pull in. If it closes out, it closes out.'"

When the wave connects with the Pipe reef, each rider times their moment while simultaneously checking on each other's movements.

"As I dropped to the bottom of the wave, I started to run over Mike's trail from his bodyboard. It threw me off a bit and set me on this weird line."

Sharing is caring and the two legends were ready for the decisive moment.

"Then, the chandelier section came, and I couldn't see anything. I was just deep in the barrel."

O'Brien is the first to disappear under the falling blue-and-white curtain of water. He speeds up to catch Stewart, who provides Jamie enough time and space to find an exit line.

"The wave started spitting, and I kept thinking, 'Trust Mike, trust Mike. He'll hold a good line.' And then - boom - I got spit out! I was just like, 'Oh my God.'"

"Mike is the greatest bodyboarder of all time and one of the greatest legends to ever surf Pipeline. It's always awesome to share a wave with him," concluded JOB.

The nine-time world bodyboarding champion was also ecstatic.

"Getting a barrel at Pipe is a truly special experience, but sharing a barrel with your friend takes it to another level," stated the greatest bodyboarder of all time.

"There's something magical about being in such an intense and personal moment with an amigo."

"There are only a few people left with whom I feel confident enough to do this, and Jamie O'Brien, one of the best to ever ride it to this day, is definitely one of them."

Jamie O'Brien is 41. Mike Stewart is 61. And as Tom Morey once said, "We're all surfers."

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Have you ever wished to replicate your first surfboard? Do you think about remaking an old classic template? Are you looking to re-shape a favorite beaten, waterlogged board? Here's how to do it.

When we talk about surfboard shaping, there is often a heated debate on using technology to assist craftsmanship.

Should all surfboards be shaped by hand, one by one? Is it a sin to introduce machines in the board-building process?

The answers will never be unanimous.

The truth is that machines, or even robots if you prefer, are increasingly taking over the surfboard production process.

With the advent of computer numerical control (CNC) machines, shapers multiplied the production of any template several times.

In a few years, even some of the most conservative board builders surrendered to the time-saving and precision of CNC and focused their time and effort on designing high-performance templates that meet their customer base.

At some point, if you own a business, it's a choice you have to make: commit to the old shaping methods or compete directly with the thousands of industry players.

With no judgments or prejudice. And there are some innovations that could really make a difference.

For instance, who hasn't dreamed of having a particular surfboard recreated? An old template that is unrideable or a friend's magic surfboard.

Anyone who's surfed for over five or ten years has craved a specific board type with favorite length, width, thickness, and fin setup preferences.

However, until recently, it was hard to remake them. You'd have to bring the original board to a shaping room to be copied by eye by the craftsperson.

Sometimes, technological assistance is just too much, but in this particular case, it's actually quite useful.

How to Scan and Import a Surfboard into Shape3D

What if you could scan the surfboard you want to replicate in 15 minutes, make a few adjustments on the computer, and press "print" on the CNC machine?

Now, you can. The whole process is surprisingly quick and simple.

All you need is a hand laser scanner and surfboard design software like Shape3D, one of the most popular CAD/CAM computer programs for surfboard building.

Once you've got the file, you can ask your local shaper to make your dream board a reality.

Here's a quick guide on how to duplicate any surfboard or tweak modern designs in seven straightforward steps.

Step 1: Preparing the Surfboard for Scanning

Before starting to scan the surfboard you want to replicate, it's important to increase the quality of the data gathered by the scanner.

1. Mask Black Logos and Plugs: Use white powder spray for masking. If unavailable, clear tape works fine. Masking the fin plugs is optional;
2. Place Targets: Apply small target stickers about every 8 inches (20 centimeters) on the flat surfaces, i.e., deck and bottom;
3. Board Condition: Removing wax is not necessary, but it can help when you get to the software stage;

Step 2: Scanning the Board

Once the initial setup is finished, it's time to take the most precise possible three-dimensional picture of the board.

1. Scan the Deck: Press "Start" and scan the deck. Move at a steady pace; if the scanner loses track, restart from a previously scanned area;
2. Scan the Rails: Go slower on the rails since they could lack targets; if tracking is lost, restart from the deck and proceed carefully along the rails;
3. Scan the Bottom: Flip the board and scan the bottom after completing the deck and rails;
4. Merge Scans: Use the 3D scanner software to merge deck and bottom scans;

Step 3: Processing the Scans

It's now time to look at the scan results and optimize, correct, and fine-tune the output image.

1. Clean Scans: Remove unnecessary elements like the table by selecting "Connected Entities," reversing the selection, and deleting;
2. Merging Scans: Use surface merging (not target merging) to combine the deck and bottom scans;
3. Adjust the Resolution: Apply the best fit to ensure precision;
4. Optimize Meshes: Convert the scan into meshes and reduce resolution (e.g., to 4 mm);
5. Fill Gaps and Optimize Surfaces: Perform basic repairs to remove dings and small crevices and holes;
6. Smooth and Decimate: Use the smooth function to eliminate wax-related irregularities. Decimate the mesh to reduce the number of meshes (e.g., from 150,000 to 12,000) for easier import into Shape3DM;

Step 4: Aligning and Exporting

Once you're happy with the final replicate look of the surfboard, it's time to export the image file.

1. Align with the Axis: Use basic alignment to position the board with the origin;
2. Export the STL File: Save the cleaned, aligned scan as an STL file for Shape3D import;

Step 5: Importing into Shape3D

The surfboard scanning file has been exported and can now be read in the Shape3D software.

1. Import the Scan: Go to File > Scan Import in Shape3D and load the STL file;
2. Fine-Tune the Board's Position: Ensure the board's nose is on the right-hand side and adjust the X-axis direction;
3. Perform an Automatic Symmetry Check: Shape3D automatically adjusts the scan for symmetry;
4. Extract Board Details: The software identifies the board outline, stringer curve, and cross-sections (default is 5 slices, but more can be imported if needed);

Step 6: Refining the Model

It's time for the final improvements to the replicated template before it can be "printed."

1. Fix Imperfections: Check and correct stringer curves and slices manually, especially near the nose and tail, where scans may not be as clean:
2. Copy and Paste Slices: Do it for consistent shapes, making adjustments as needed;
3. Compare with Original: Load the STL scan as a ghost board to compare the scanned data with your refined Shape3D model;

Step 7: Adding Final Details

We've reached the final step, and all you need to do is place the fin plugs and add the stringer.

1. Fin Plugs: Load a photo of the board as a ghost image to place fin plugs accurately. Adjust positions manually as needed;
2. 3D Visualization: Add a stringer and other details in the 3D view for a realistic representation;

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Wavegarden announced the creation of the company's first experimentation center.

The Wavegarden Lab is the first private wave pool solely dedicated to continuous research and development (R&D) and high-performance surfing.

The Basque Country firm led by Josema Odriozola and Karin Frisch upgraded the original demo center at their headquarters near Zarautz, Spain, and one hour from Hossegor and Mundaka.

The facility's water surface area of 90 meters by 45 meters can generate waves up to 2.2 meters high and rides of up to 14 seconds.

Barrel time is now set at 7 seconds.

To transform the structure into a research and development center, the company redesigned the wave generator system with improved take-off and end sections.

The left and right sides of the lagoon can also operate independently without increasing energy consumption.

Solitary waves can now be programmed every 15-30 seconds instead of sets with 7-8 second intervals.

The new bathymetry allows a close-out section for foam, lip, or small barrel finishes. The different launch pads are tailored for tricks like alley-oops and double aerials.

There are glass panels behind the take-off area for better viewing, and walls have been removed to create a more natural environment.

The continuous cycle of waves running 24/7 allows for testing mechanical components, water treatment, filtration, coatings, and bathymetry changes.

The goal is to ensure a $15-30-million investment in a Wavegarden wave pool is executed with near-zero flaws.

Tested By... Kelly Slater

Curiously, Kelly Slater, who developed his own wave pool technology, was invited to surf at the Wavegarden Lab.

"I was really impressed. There are a lot of options and variability in the designs," stated the founder of Kelly Slater Wave Co.

"What we need most in wave pool design is ideas and people constantly working on them."

Slater, alongside pro surfers such as Shane Dorian, Bobby Martinez, Leo Fioravanti, Kauli Vaast, Mateus Herdy, and Coco Ho provided real-time feedback and collaborated with Wavegarden technicians to refine wave settings and features.

For instance, Mateus Herdy worked to design a custom double air wave, and Leo Fioravanti regularly trains to refine aerial maneuvers like the stale fish and backflip.

And with replay screens at the take-off area, surfers have immediate feedback on their performances and can continue to push limits in a controlled, private environment.

Lastly, the Wavegarden Lab showcases updated shoreline areas for aesthetics and improved surf experience.

The Spanish wave pool company is looking forward to using its original test site to fine-tune and perfect its inland surfing concept and incorporate upgrades in its existing and upcoming surf park network.

As of November 2024, Wavegarden operates eight wave pools globally, with ten under construction and over 50 in development.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

The rapid expansion of the world's wave pool web and the diversification of synthetic wave-generating technologies are creating investment opportunities for professional surfers.

They're popping like mushrooms in places where water is scarce, thousands of miles away from the coastline, or in high-density surf zones.

Wave pools are the only truly dynamic sector within the surf industry, with the surfwear and the board and equipment segment struggling to stay afloat.

Artificial waves are already gathering billions of dollars in private funds channeled toward the construction of new inland surfing parks yearly.

The number of projects announced for anywhere in the world is also increasing each quarter.

With more, there are more and more side businesses attached to them: restaurants, surf shops, cafeterias, surf rentals, surf lessons, AI video capture, beach clubs, bungalows, sports medicine, hotels, water and theme parks, event areas, conference centers, golf courses, etc.

Ultimately, the admission ticket to the wave pool itself is increasingly less relevant within the whole revenue stream chart.

The more complex these surf centers become, the larger they grow in total dedicated area.

Eventually, they're nearly small towns or private communities with their own dynamics and internal social and economic characteristics where thousands of people converge every day.

The idea is not new, even though many grand failures with similar projects still haunt many city halls.

21th-Century Surf

Wave pools were not "invented" by Kelly Slater. They are actually quite old, and the first prototypes date back to the 19th century.

Nevertheless, Slater did indeed pioneer the modern concept of surfing in enclosed water bodies.

The Floridian secretly invested and developed his vision of catching waves in a swimming pool-like structure.

He spent over a decade testing several methods for producing a non-oceanic rideable wave in secrecy until revealing his version 1.0 model in 2015.

Almost simultaneously, Josema Odriozola and Karin Frisch designed, tested, and trialed their own wave pool system, Wavegarden.

Suddenly, creating surf away from the shore was the logical investment step for many real estate developers across the planet.

Soon, the interest in this giant niche within the surf industry ignited the brains of many engineers and inventors, who stepped up their game and presented their wave pool technology.

The competition for the best rideable artificial wave intensified; the private funds had money to invest, and the public interest was still far from saturated.

The different projects only needed high-profile personalities, and who better than professional surfers to market dream barrels and custom-made air sections?

Pro Surfers Turned Investors and Ambassadors

Kelly Slater was the first professional surfer to promote a wave pool technology - his own, Kelly Slater Wave Co. (KSWC).

Surf Ranch, KSWC's original site in Lemoore, California, was eventually sold to the World Surf League (WSL).

In its early days, Wavegarden also invited many pro surfers to try out their human-made waves in the test facility located in Zarautz, Spain.

The moment their first wave pools were built, each site signed partnerships with top surfers, including world champions.

The local venues took the most of each athlete's reach online to boost their customer base and yearly membership figures.

Soon, you could spot a pattern. High-profile surfers were the ones getting hired as ambassadors or brand promoters for each wave pool project.

Apart from Slater, Mark Occhilupo was one of the first world champion surfers to become a (minority) shareholder in a wave pool.

The 1999 ASP World Tour champion got involved with Surf Lakes and put his money into the Australian wave-generating technology.

Gabriel Medina and his Kauai Ventures partnered with WhiteWater's Endless Surf to develop wave pool projects across Brazil.

Kanoa Igarashi also joined the wave pool investors club with a six-figure contribution to the $30-million facility, Surf Parque Óbidos in Peniche, Portugal.

Wave pools are capital-intensive. They're not just another surf apparel company or local brewery where to throw some savings.

Mick Fanning is a well-known world surfing champion turned investor.

He has diversified his venture portfolio and is only getting into businesses he believes in deeply.

In 2024, the Australian announced his participation in the creation of the Palm Valley Gold Coast Resort, a $300-million multidisciplinary project featuring, among 200 apartments and golf, an Endless Surf wave pool.

The Fall of the Competitive Surfing Dream?

The trend is likely to continue in the following decades, and a few questions arise.

Will professional surfing become the trampoline to business careers? Is pro surfing sufficiently attractive after you're 30 or 35? Could competitive surfing start losing its stars too early?

One thing we know: nearly all professional surfers, men and women, have set up alternative revenue income streams.

They're increasingly monetizing their online presence, creating video content, gathering off-surfing sponsors, endorsing events, and serving as ambassadors for localized wave pool projects, etc.

You could picture a scenario where putting on a jersey is only a means to a much more grandiose life as entrepreneurs and business people.

Ghost Wave Pools

As we witness the growth of mega real estate projects featuring wave pools, we will also observe unsuccessful and eventually bankrupt ones.

Pouring money into extravagant, larger-than-life tourism and wellness developments comes with a price.

The lack of financial sustainability could lead to a surge of post-apocalyptical ghost facilities abandoned by owners, investors, and local councils.

We've seen it with theme parks and water parks since they were built in the 20th century, but also with more recently built wave pools.

Seagaia Ocean Dome in Japan, the NLand Surf Park in Texas, and Surf Snowdonia in Wales closed down before their natural life expectancy.

Although the wave pool market is far from saturated, there will be a moment when previously healthy artificial surf centers will cease being viable.

Also, new technologies will replace outdated, old wave-generating systems, and the price to keep a business up-to-date will not be compatible with the original revenue stream paradigm.

And when that moment comes, concrete is all that will remain.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

It's arguably the world's richest and most culturally relevant surfing museum. The California Surf Museum is a living entity that preserves the past to understand the present and project the future of surfing.

The road to excellence is more often Z-shaped than linear, and, many times, it's the hardships and challenges that truly make the finish line sweeter.

The life of the California Surf Museum (CSM) is a virtuous circle of increments of ambition and greatness where all sorts of contributions are welcome.

And its humble start takes place by the beach with a simple goal: to preserve and celebrate surfing's rich history.

Since opening its doors, the California Surf Museum has welcomed over 650,000 visitors from all 50 states and 68 countries.

In 2023, it was named the number two "Best Attraction for Sports Fans" in the USA Today Readers' Choice Awards.

A Humble Beginning in Encinitas

In February 1986, a group of enthusiasts gathered at George's Restaurant on Coast Highway in Encinitas. 

Among them were surfers and non-surfers united by a shared appreciation for the sport's multidisciplinary universe and influence.

So, led by figures like Jane Schmauss, Mike Cates, and others, the original founding board of directors laid the foundation for what would become a treasured Golden State institution.

In the beginning, the kick-off efforts were quite obvious.

The museum had to focus on assembling surfboards, photographs, and surf-related memorabilia. And there was so much to do.

The early collection artifacts were initially displayed in an alcove within George's Restaurant.

By 1988, the young museum had secured a rent-free space at Moonlight Plaza, a newly constructed shopping center in Encinitas, thanks to the generosity of local businessman Paul Rotsheck.

Not bad for a start.

The new location offered greater visibility and allowed the museum to host its first official exhibit, "Surfing: Trestles to Tourmaline," which opened to the public on September 28, 1988.

Expanding to Pacific Beach

With momentum building, the museum soon sought a larger audience.

In 1989, CSM moved to a new location within the Promenade Shopping Center on Mission Boulevard in Pacific Beach.

You could easily say that this pivotal moment marked the beginning of its adventure southward toward becoming a cultural landmark for the entire San Diego region.

By this time, the sport was also getting more and more popular among people who had never stood up on a surfboard.

Therefore, although the Pacific Beach location was a step forward, the museum was still searching for a space that could accommodate its ever-growing collection and provide a proper venue for events.

But a vision is the sum of constructive layers, time, and opportunity, and the CSM knew to wait.

Big Growth in Oceanside

The defining moment came in 1991 when museum member Dave Hanson struck up a conversation with a local real estate agent.

The chat led to an unmissable opportunity: the chance to occupy a vacant bar called The Pride's Inn on North Pacific Street in Oceanside, directly across from the iconic Oceanside Pier.

The property owners, Jim Keenan and Jim Watkins made a generous offer to allow the museum rent-free use of the building and the entire city block until they were ready to develop the land.

Though the location was ideal, the building was far from ready for a museum.

The former bar required extensive renovations to transform it into a space suitable for displaying surfing artifacts and hosting visitors.

Volunteers from the community, alongside local businesses, poured countless hours and resources into the project.

By the end of 1991, the museum had a new home, and it hired its first employee, Rich Watkins, a Vietnam veteran and long-time surfer, as administrator.

Watkins was a key figure in shaping the museum's character during its formative years.

Also, with its larger beachfront location, the museum could host events that drew surfers and wave-riding enthusiasts of all ages.

Among these gatherings was the first "Old Timers' Day" in 1993, which honored early California surfing legends such as Whitey Harrison, Faye Baird Fraser, and Phil Edwards.

The museum was quickly gaining recognition as a hub for the surfing community, a place where history was not just preserved but celebrated.

Meeting Museum Standards at Pacific Coast Highway

Despite its success at the Pacific Street location, the building's condition left much to be desired.

Structural and weather-related issues made it clear that CSM would eventually need to relocate.

By 1995, the City of Oceanside recognized the museum's importance and offered a space at the corner of North Coast Highway and Pier View Way.

Formerly a Rexall drugstore, the new location provided high visibility in Oceanside's downtown district, even though it had less space and no outdoor gathering area.

However, trade-offs are part of everyday life, and the decision was to pack and go. Again.

The move was another labor-intensive project.

With the help of generous donations, including financial support from the clothing company No Fear and exhibit cases provided by Glenn Sundby, founder of the International Gymnastics Hall of Fame, the museum adapted the space to suit its needs.

The new CSM officially opened its doors on July 5, 1997.

Before the new millennium, the museum began implementing modern, up-to-date museum standards.

With the purchase of collections management software, it embarked on the monumental task of digitizing its growing archives.

And there was so much work to do.

Imagine cataloging all surf magazines, photographs, and other memorabilia available, ensuring their preservation for future generations.

By 2007, the museum's dedication to documenting surfing history culminated in the publication of "Surfing in San Diego," a photo book that captured decades of stories and images.

The Move to a Permanent Home

Fortunately, the museum's reputation kept growing, and so did the demand for a larger, more permanent facility.

Could CSM be planning yet another move?

By the early 2000s, it was clear that the North Coast Highway location could no longer meet the needs of its expanding collection and visitor base.

In 2006, the City of Oceanside offered a new site at 312 Pier View Way.

The proposed new space, three times larger than the previous one, required major renovations to meet museum-quality standards.

Originally designed by architect and board member Louise Ravera Balma, the building featured a distinctive wave motif on its façade, reflecting the museum's theme.

Construction began in 2008, and the museum moved into its new home in 2009.

The new home of CSM provided ample room for exhibits, events, and administrative functions.

It also included a dedicated archive space, workshop, and a larger store.

And then, its proximity to the beach, pier, and hotels only cemented its influence as the place to be to learn more about surf history and formally honor its personalities.

Preserving Surfing's Treasures

CSM has meticulously assembled one of the world's most comprehensive collections of surfing memorabilia.

Its impressive archives boast over 17,000 items, including surfboards, trophies, artwork, magazines, music, oral histories, and rare documents.

These valuable and historic artifacts are regularly brought to life through permanent and rotating exhibits that explore key moments, individuals, and innovations in surfing history.

Among its highlights is the "The Science of Surfing" exhibit, which invites visitors to get to know more about the relationship between science and modern surfing.

Funded by a City of Oceanside COVID-19 grant, this STEAM-aligned display welcomes people of all ages and makes it an especially invaluable educational tool for schools.

CSM's education committee partners with community organizations to create programs like state-wide photo competitions.

Events and Celebrations

Over the years, CSM has become a very active center for the surfing community, hosting hundreds of events, including film screenings, panel discussions, book signings, and its annual members' party.

The museum's gala fundraiser has grown into a major event, featuring the prestigious Silver Surfer Award, which honors individuals who have significantly contributed to surfing culture.

Since its inception in 2009, 33 recipients have been honored for their enduring impact on the sport.

From 2008 to 2011, the California Surf Festival brought live music, movies, and workshops to Oceanside.

Well-known participants included Bruce Brown, director of the timeless "The Endless Summer," professional surfer-musician Donavon Frankenreiter, and many others.

Worth a Visit

The California Surf Museum (CSM) is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization (EIN: 33-0215579). It is located at 312 Pier View Way, Oceanside, CA 92054.

It's definitely worth a visit and, ideally, with time to spare.

The 3,000-square-foot (280-square-meter) exhibit hall and store are open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

The admission fees are $7 for adults, $5 for seniors, military, and students, and free for kids under 11 and CSM members.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Hong Kong is a city known for its mix of tradition and modernity.

However, China's special administrative region has taken a surprisingly rigid stance on surfing by enforcing a full-on ban across all 42 public beaches managed by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department (LCSD).

Twelve of the territory's beaches are situated on Hong Kong Island, while the other 30 are spread across the New Territories, including the Outlying Islands.

The policy has existed for decades but has recently been under the spotlight due to intensified enforcement and growing frustration among surfers.

The Origin of the Ban

The surfing ban in Hong Kong is not new. It dates back to when the LCSD implemented regulations to ensure safety at public beaches.

Officially, the law prohibits any person from bringing or using surfboards in areas designated for swimming.

The government argues that surfboards pose a safety risk to swimmers and first responders, especially during dangerous weather conditions.

Despite this, the ban was historically quietly enforced, allowing surfers to enjoy Hong Kong's limited but precious waves, particularly at Big Wave Bay, the only beach on Hong Kong Island with rideable surf.

Surf bans are not new in Asia and around the world. Foils, for instance, are getting more and more no-go warnings at select international beaches.

In some Southern California coastal communities, there's even a sign that tells surfers to stay away from the water.

It's called the black ball flag, and it's raised to protect beachgoers from getting hit by surfboards in the swimming zone during summer.

Recent Enforcement and Public Backlash

However, the Hong Kong authorities made sure to push the new rule further and strongly enforce it this year.

In May 2023, new laws were introduced targeting risky watersports during typhoons and rough seas, leading to the installation of "No Surfing" signs at all LCSD beaches by June.

Violators now face severe penalties, including fines of up to HK $2,000 (approximately $260 USD) and up to 14 days in jail.

Recent incidents include the prosecution of two surfers caught at Big Wave Bay during a typhoon, a decision that breaks away from the prior informal understanding between surfers and authorities.

It's not easy to be a surfer in a city that is home to 7.5 million people.

Why Now?

Critics are questioning the timing of the crackdown.

Lawmaker Adrian Pedro Ho King-hong from the New People's Party has taken up the cause, repeatedly pushing for a dialogue with the Culture, Sports and Tourism Bureau (CSTB).

His proposals for compromise, such as designated surfing zones or restricted wave-riding hours - have been dismissed outright.

According to Ho, officials rejected the idea, citing fears of public complaints.

The LCSD has stated it has no plans to amend the rules or conduct feasibility studies, maintaining that surfing "has always been prohibited" at LCSD-managed beaches.

Impact on Hong Kong's Surfing Scene

The ban has hit Hong Kong's surfing community hard.

Big Wave Bay now faces a dark future despite its long history and tradition as the hub of the city's surf culture.

Local surfers and instructors expressed confusion and frustration and complained about the lack of clear communication from authorities.

For many, the government's heavy-handed approach feels disproportionate, especially in a city renowned for its cultural diversity.

The ban also puts Hong Kong at odds with the rise of surfing worldwide as a water sport.

While other countries are investing in infrastructure and even hosting Olympic qualifying events, Hong Kong's conservative stance effectively excludes its surfers from participating in and hosting contests in the territory.

Calls for Change

Despite the setbacks, efforts to fight the ban continue.

Ho has urged the government to rethink its position, emphasizing that with 42 beaches under LCSD management, it should be possible to allocate at least one for surfing.

He also advocates for public consultations or surveys to gather broader opinions rather than assuming universal opposition.

Meanwhile, local surfers and journalists keep expressing the lack of rationale behind the enforcement and the need for balanced regulations that can accommodate both swimmers and water sports enthusiasts.

The editorial board of the South China Morning Post echoed these sentiments, arguing that many countries successfully manage shared beach use.

They called on the government to find a solution that ensures safety for beachgoers without outright banning a sport that is surely increasingly popular.

When in Doubt, Don't Paddle Out

The surfing ban is a symbol of the broader tensions within Hong Kong.

It underscores the city's increasing alignment with rigid mainland policies, prioritizing control over compromise.

While the CSTB appears unyielding, the surfers' fight continues with hope for a more inclusive future, especially at Big Wave Bay.

If the government maintains its current position, Hong Kong risks alienating not only its local surfing community but also potential visitors drawn by the South China Sea swells.

The question remains: will public pressure and persistent advocacy be enough to turn the tide?

Surfing is not a crime.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Ready for something completely different? "Juju The Surf Musical" is a punch in the stomach of traditional surf movies.

Can surfing be the key to redemption and salvation? Isn't surfing a profoundly female dance with the ocean waves?

We dare to believe so.

Imagined by Jaleesa Vincent and Luka Raubenheimer, this under-30-minute unexpectedly entertaining surprise blends surfing, music, and fantasy into a unique storytelling experience.

With a lineup of professional surfers turned actors and actresses - including Jaleesa herself, Creed McTaggart, Josie Prendergast, and the legendary Mark Occhilupo - the film is a cauldron of creative freedom and unconventional viewpoints.

However, pop surrealism is one of the first concepts that better describe what you're about to watch.

But there's also room for fantasy, dreams, and the ever-conflicting world of good versus evil, devil versus god, work versus fun.

More Than Just Surfing

At its heart, "Juju The Surf Musical" tells the story of Juju, a receptionist who decides to break free from her stressful job and oppressive boss, Mark.

After quitting office life, Juju heads to the beach, hoping for peace and reconnection with the surf.

But her move takes an unexpected turn as she enters a mystical world where light and dark forces shape her path.

Along the way, she meets Creed of the Dark, a trickster-like figure who takes her surfing, and the Queen of the Light, a serene presence who guides Juju's transformation.

The film's narrative takes the spectator into themes of balance and contrasts, reflecting a yin-yang philosophy.

Juju's adventure becomes an adventure of self-discovery in a surreal and magical universe.

The darkness of a cavern quickly morphs into the heavenly bright light of the sea, where an ethereal surfer-goddess dances with the waves.

Music as the Driving Force

Unlike traditional surf films, "Juju The Surf Musical" is driven by music.

And that is something relatively new in this flick, apart from a few experimentations made in the 1960s and 1970s.

There's little dialogue; instead, the story unfolds through songs written by Jaleesa and performed by her band, Cupid and the Stupids.

The tunes go from indie, The Doors-esque to California sound-like melodies.

The use of sound in "Juju The Surf Musical" is particularly clever, as the no-dialogue exercise is often hard to master in movies that don't usually fit the short films category.

The trick to making them work is often in the script, shooting, and editing.

So obviously, the music, layered with surf harmonies and dream pop-like chords, adds depth to the film's fantastical atmosphere.

Each song tries to match the visuals, making the film feel like a living painting, which is precisely what the director aimed for - thrashy, confusing melodies for devilish moments and smooth sonic atmospheres for celestial water world scenes.

Every element seems to work together seamlessly, from choreography to animation, showcasing the creators' meticulous attention to detail.

Smart product placement opportunities by sponsor Billabong can be spotted but without being too intrusive.

A Visual and Creative Feat

The visuals in "Juju The Surf Musical" are as unconventional as its storyline.

Have you ever seen surfing clips where everything is red, including the skies and the waves? Look no further.

The entire film is packed with surreal imagery, blending artistic animation, purposedly low-fi CGI, and simple yet enthralling choreography.

And Occhilupo is in the bad guy role, which is somehow the antithesis of his real-life persona.

Jaleesa described the filmmaking process as creating a "painting" where every frame tells its own story.

Despite being under half an hour long, the film required extensive collaboration, with Jaleesa and Luka handling everything from songwriting to editing.

Unfortunately, surfing is no longer the focus of big productions nowadays, which can also be positive, especially when it generates these occasional upsides.

Last but not least, the surf clips are less relevant than the whole picture and serve more as a backdrop to the broader narrative.

The emphasis is on storytelling, not just waves and wave-riding per se, and we can only applaud that.

If surf movies are going arty like this, let's welcome them and ask for more surprising outcomes.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Belgian surf journalist Veerle Helsen released "Surf & Art," a celebration of the growing genre of surf art. And it's quite a mesmerizing book.

Known for her "Surf & Stay" guides, which sold over 20,000 copies worldwide, Veerle's new project explored the creative world of artists who translate the magic of surfing into illustrations, paintings, and digital designs.

The idea for the book began in 2018 during a camper trip for Veerle's first book.

"I came across an illustration by Portuguese artist Lizzy," Veerle shares.

"It showed a woman gracefully dancing on the water with pink waves that shimmered as though the sun had sprinkled them with a magic pencil."

The image resonated deeply, and she began collecting surf-themed art. The process eventually became the foundation of 'Surf & Art.'

The book features 23 contemporary surf artists from around the globe, from celebrated and cult names like Jean Jullien and Quentin Monge to emerging talents like Jessica Soparlo.

A Dip Into Surf Art

Each visual artist brings a unique vision, style, and perspective to the genre.

For instance, Jim Drouet's impressionistic works feature women who drift through cinematic scenes, evoking the endless summers that are such an important part of surfing's imagery.

On the other hand, Kentaro Yoshida's bold, manga-inspired drawings stand out for their Japanese influence.

Ultimately, the diversity of styles showcases how surf art bridges different cultures and artistic movements.

"I asked each artist two questions: 'Who is an absolute must-have in a book about surf art?' and 'What motto or quote inspires you?'" underlines Veerle.

The recommendations led her to discover new artists organically.

Jonty Storey, whose dreamlike painting graces the cover, was suggested by Fabian Lavater, a Swiss artist known for his simple but striking blue-line depictions of the sea.

One of the most memorable quotes in the book comes from artist Ty Williams: "Salt water can fix that."

The motto captures a sentiment shared by many surfers - that the ocean has a way of restoring balance and mending what feels broken.

Crafting the Book

Designed by Elke Treunen, who also worked on "Surf & Stay," "Surf & Art" is highly visually appealing.

But the words that go with each artist also add another dimension to the main focus: the shapes, the colors, the lines, the surfboards, and Nature.

Elke's graphic design brings the book to life with flowing lines and vibrant colors, mirroring the rhythm of waves and the boundless sky.

Veerle describes the publication as "a playful dance of strokes and arches that transform into waves, beaches, and clouds."

Throughout its pages, readers can explore not only the artwork but also the stories behind it.

Veerle conducted in-depth interviews with each artist, giving readers a better understanding of their creative processes and inspirations.

Many artists also share their favorite surf spots, making the book a treasure trove for both art lovers and surfers.

"It was hard to narrow it down to just 23 artists," Veerle admits.

"There's so much incredible work out there. I'm hoping this book inspires enough interest for a second edition."

The artists featured in the gorgeous publication are Ceri Lou Bathgate, Erik Abel, Fabian Lavater, Jean Jullien, Jeanne Beuvin, Jessica Soparlo, Jim Drouet, Johny Vieira, Jonas Claesson, Jonty Storey, Kate Wadsworth, Kentaro Yoshida, Lennart Menkhaus, Lisa Marques, Luís da Silva, Nick Kuchar, Nina Brooke, Pandora Decoster, Quentin Monge, Raül Casado, Rebekah Steen, Taisiia Kordiukova, and Ty Williams.

The Magic of the Waves

The book's title perfectly encapsulates its essence: the intersection of surf culture and artistic expression.

"High or low culture, 'Surf & Art' flows right through it," Veerle says.

"It's about capturing that indescribable feeling of gliding on a surfboard at sea."

Veerle's connection to surfing is deeply personal, and she hopes the book will resonate with anyone who has ever felt drawn to the ocean.

"When I’m out in the waves, I lose my sense of reality, finding myself in a fairytale universe. Where worries don’t exist, and butterflies fill the air," notes Veerle.

"To me, surf art is all about capturing those moments."

A Tribute to Surfing and Creativity

We haven't seen many coffee table books like "Surf & Art."

And the overall feeling is that every time we turn the page, we dream of having each illustration and design on our walls.

Veerle hopes readers will take away not just inspiration but a sense of connection to the sea.

"I want this book to transport people to the ocean," she says.

"Even if it's just through the pages, I hope it brings them closer to that magical feeling."

"Surf & Art" is now available, offering a window into the beauty and artistry of surfing culture. A second edition with more new artists will surely be welcome, too.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

How far are you willing to drive your car on a Saturday morning to find secluded surf? Up to 50 miles (80 kilometers)? Or not that much?

It's probably politically incorrect to say that there are too many people surfing nowadays.

But sometimes, it's impossible to ignore the lack of opportunities when the conditions are pristine.

The truth is that the world's excellent, very good, and good surf breaks are often ultra-crowded on any sunny weekend, even if it's freezing cold.

And we're not even talking about a two handful of spots across the world.

We can surely count thousands of lineups where it's hard to take off on a sound set wave without feeling the pressure and the shoulders of a few fellow wave riders next to you.

And if that ain't enough to remove the relaxing factor from your surf session, you'll have the occasional longboarder, stand-up paddler, or irresponsible foiling enthusiast waiting for the best moment to steal your long-awaited wave.

These days, surfing is stressful.

Blame it on social media, the inexpensive beginner surfboards, the appropriation of surfing by TV shows, the big waves of Nazaré, and the Olympic surfing moments where photos of surfers kicking out of waves break the news around the world.

I nearly stopped paddling out at my home surf break, especially during the weekend.

It has become virtually impossible to trim a nicely shaped wave without having someone drop in on me or cut my ride in half because they paddled through my surf line.

The last time it happened, I didn't even spend the energy to complain, discuss, or lecture the offenders about the basic rules of surf etiquette.

Driving Toward Seclusion

After over 30 years of surfing, you just shrug your shoulders and move on. What can I do? Ask people to leave me alone? Tell them they should know the priority rules before getting wet?

It's pointless. The only alternative left for me is to get in the car and drive as much as I'm willing to drive to get a fair share of waves.

If you've ever felt this way, you know we all have a sweet spot or a pain point regarding driving to surf.

How many miles are enough? And how much time is it worth to spend to be out there in the water for an hour or two?

The older we get, the less tolerance for not having our own little moment after a stressful working week.

Personally, I might have more patience and tolerance for everything else than my right to do what makes me feel good, grounded, and mentally healthy.

Driving to surf has become inevitable in my life.

It's my rather non-sustainable weekly escape from city life and computer screen time.

The concept of "drive to surf" reminds me of the popular Netflix series "Drive to Survive," which ironically has exponentially boosted Formula 1's popularity since the first episode aired in March 2019.

Surfing is supposed to be a laid-back pastime, not a stressful battleground where people hustle for a temporary, Nature-generated resource.

In the past 10 years, I've been increasing the number of times I am OK to drive around 12.5 miles (20 miles) to get my surf fix.

And that's not my limit. I feel I can stretch that figure way up.

Which leads me to the question: If the surfing figures continue to grow, how can the same natural resources not reach the point of total and anarchic saturation in the next years?

Lineups: A Dystopic Future

The industry is not sleeping, though.

New wave pool technologies are constantly popping up and opening liquid riding opportunities for surfers inland.

The problem with most of them is the business model and the fact that they don't address most of the pockets.

The price per wave at these large water basins is still irrationally high for the average surfer.

Things will eventually tend to get better, though.

One of these days, speaking with one of Europe's largest surfboard manufacturers, he surprised me with the news of how river surfing is growing.

Apparently, there's more and more demand for river wave-driven surfboard shapes. Interesting, isn't it?

Think about this: the first generation of surfers who started in their teenage years during the 1950s and 1960s was mostly limited to the United States, with a few exceptions in Australia, Europe, and South Africa.

They are only a fraction of the number of millennials and Gen Zs who got into surfing at the same age or even younger.

Now imagine when this large audience batch reaches their 60s and 70s.

They will be in the water with the younger generations, making lineups even harder to navigate.

Will they also drive to surf? Will their cost of opportunity be even more extreme?

If not, how will the surfing population be distributed? Could the lineups become a dystopic war zone where only the fittest and strongest can ride a perfect wave?

I am a moderately pessimistic mind when it comes to the human race. Maybe, but only maybe, we will be forced to fly to surf.

But by then, my waves will be others.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com